Columbia & Panama

My second proper cruising experience on board S/V Fortuna with Taras and Emily. This is probably one of the most unusual routes I’ve ever done and it wouldn’t be possible with any charter boat. In two weeks, we sail 425 nautical miles from Colombia to Panama with a stopover in the remote San Blas Islands. For a trip like this, there’s no point in keeping a day by day log, it’s much better to focus on the places we visit.

Cartagena

It’s our meeting point. My friends are already here for a few days, exploring the city. It’s also a convenient entry point for me to fly in from Amsterdam. My first impression? It feels dangerous. And I grew up in a not-so-safe neighborhood of a not-so-safe city.

But in reality, it’s pretty okay. The days of tourist kidnappings by FARC are long gone. Now it’s a lively party place with great restaurants, art filled streets, and crowds of visitors. That being said, you still need to stay aware. Don’t flash an expensive camera or a wallet full of cash, and definitely don’t get blackout drunk. Follow those basic rules and you’ll be fine. We spend two days here, not a lot, but enough to get a feel for the vibe of the city.

Santa Marta

This place feels completely different. It’s a hotspot for local tourists, with a fancy marina, a seafront lined with cute restaurants full of families, and high rises right on the water. This is where Fortuna has been moored for some time. We arrive just before sunset, unpack quickly, and go out for dinner and drinks.

The next day is all about provisioning and getting the boat ready for departure. Provisioning here is actually amazing. There are plenty of supermarkets, well stocked and reasonably priced. Cuban rum, good meat, fresh fruit and vegetables, all easy to find. It feels safe and fun, but you can tell that tight security is part of life here. The marina is gated and requires a fingerprint scan to enter, even for the toilets. The supermarket has armed guards, sure they’re carrying double barrel shotguns, but still. Behind the chill atmosphere, you can sense the reason those precautions exist.

Crossing

We leave at sunset. The weather doesn’t favour us. The wind blows 15 to 25 knots straight from the direction we need to go so we’re in for a rough ride with a lot of motoring. With three people on board, watch shifts are easy to organise. I’m happy to take the early morning ones since I’m still on Amsterdam time and would be awake anyway.

We have two options. One, go straight to our destination. Or two, hug the coast and hope to catch some wind on a close or beam reach to actually sail. The downside of staying near the shore is all the driftwood in the water, thanks to weeks of heavy rain and storms.

Even though Fortuna is a tough, go anywhere kind of boat, no one wants a massive log smashing into the propeller or rudder. We take the coastal route anyway, and it turns out to be the right call. We manage to sail a big part of the way and we run over driftwood only once with no consequences whatsoever. Overall, it’s a pleasant three days at sea, and now I can say I’ve left Colombia by boat : )

San Blas Islands

After a few days at sea, it’s amazing to spot the paradise like islands of San Blas. The archipelago sits off the northwest coast of Panama facing the Caribbean Sea. There are around 378 islands scattered over roughly 100 square miles. All of them are incredibly flat the highest point in the entire region is maybe two meters. The islands are tiny, and home to the Kuna people, who live a simple life, mostly untouched by modern influences.

We anchor in a well protected bay called the Pool. A few other cruising boats are here, and so is a famous vessel known as the Net Boat. It’s been moored here for last 15 years and serves as the heart of the local sailing community. Every day, they broadcast updates over VHF: weather, safety tips, social events, it’s like a floating radio station in the middle of nowhere. We drop anchor, pour stiff drinks, and spend our first evening relaxing after the passage.

The next morning, local fisherman greet us from his hand carved canoe made from hollowed tree trunk. Locals are incredibly friendly but protective of their environment. One offers us lobsters for five dollars apiece. No joke. Lobster for dinner quickly becomes a regular thing.

We also visit the only restaurant around called Ibin’s. Despite having no running water, it’s a solid spot. The owner is lovely, speaks great English, and the menu is simple but fresh. More lobster, a few other dishes, beer, and some cocktails.

Panama

After a week or so at San Blas we sail to the mainland, to Linton Bay specifically. It’s a popular cruisers spot, with a big marina, good anchoring, and convinient shore access. Most importantly, it has a reliable connection to Panama City.

We spend a couple of days anchored in the bay before moving into the marina. The surroundings are lush, green, and full of boats. The marina is modern, with a well stocked chandlery, a massive crane, gas station and a restaurant. A great place to catch a break and explore a bit more inland.

In the next bay over, things feel very different. There’s a small village on the shore, clearly home to people with very little money. But it still feels incredibly safe, a sentiment that applies to most of Panama, really. The houses are basic, people shower outside with a hose, but it feels warm and peaceful. There’s a surprisingly well stocked general store, a restaurant, and even a dive center where we refill our scuba tanks.

The bay itself is a bit eerie, thanks to all the half sunken boats. After chatting with the restaurant owner, we learn that many sailors anchor here for free and just abandon their boats. Eventually, they drag anchor, crash on the rocks, and get left there, eyesores and hazards. Local salvage laws are complicated, so those wrecks can stay in place for years or even decades.

This marks the end of my sailing trip, but not the end of my time in Panama. A good friend is also in the region, scouting coffee plantations by car, and he’s on his way to pick us up. Over the coming days, we’ll explore the inland, stay in charming village, and enjoy coffee tastings he’s arranged for us. This entire journey is a unique experience, I’m incredibly happy I got to see this lesser traveled part of the world.